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Built Like A Dozer and Runs like Silk

Review by: Bill from Weatherford, Texas

The MM20" was picked up at Austin, Tx., from the Mini Max storefront with the help of the MM staff loading it into a rented trailer. Still in the crate,laid back on it's spine, and well tied down the 568 lb. bandsaw rode well. I would suggest opening the factory shrinkwrap and removing the toolkit, the miter guage, and the heavy cast iron fence. The heavy fence left some light scratches as it jiggled on the 200 mile trip home. The old "Cosmolene" shipping and rust prevention grease has been changed to a thin oil which makes for quick cleanup. I used clean dry rags to wipe away most of the thin oil coating. Then to cut the remaining film and leave a dry and slick finish, I used "ArmorAll Spray Tire Foam" to clean all internal and external surfaces. Wiring in the 220v power cord is simple and color coded. A length of 6-8' of #10 wire is fine for the motor's 20+ amps. Use the NEW MANNUAL POSTED ON THE MINI MAX WEBSITE. Upon placing a new 1/2" blade on the wheels, I had some "Gut Wrenching" moments when I saw that the casted wheels and rims were drilled almost 3/16" off center. I mean the hub's casting was machined off center and the rim is the same offset, and both wheels showed this. The wheels have balance weights mounted to the backside, but I still had my major concerns... But with the switch was pushed, and the 4.8HP motor quietly powered-up, the saw was as smooth as silk as well as after the power was cut and the machine winds down to a final stop (no use of brake pedal)the same smoothness. Being taller, the band saw table on some band saws is rather low. I found some exceptionally clear Pecan, Oak, and Beech 3" X 3"s from old wooden pallets to make a riser so the table height is between 40"-42" from the floor. My band saw's riser has a finished height of 5" tall and 1/2" wider than the band saw base. I glued the hardwoods together to form the heavy frame woodwork; then mitered, glued, and reinforced at the corners with countersunk and plugged 3/8" lag bolts. Then, a 3/4" rabbet is router cut so with glue and screws the bottom is inlayed and sealed with 3/4" thick plywood. The saw's weight sits a 1/2" inward on the perimeter of the heavy timber framework. Before sealing the top the same way as the bottom with 3/4" plywood, I filled the cavity with a sack of sandbox sand mixed with clean pea gravel. The gravel and sand add mass to the base, and because it remains loose, it absorbs vibration and any harmonics as the saw starts-up or winds-down. A light stain and 3 coats of poly gives the riser under your band saw a fancy furniture finish... The Ultimate tests came when I Placed not one, but two nickels on their edges. One nickel was place on the far right of the blade and the second nickel was placed next to the table on the far left side of the blade. After THREE complete cycles of Powering-up, running for 30 seconds, and pressing the large red off switch Coasting-down to a dead stop....BOTH NICKELS REMAINED STANDING ON THEIR EDGE. CONCLUSION: Using the manual to compare replacement parts and part numbers, it shows that the MM20" uses exactly the same blade-wheel bearings and spindles as the MM24". Strong and Smooth best describes the performance and the quality control of this MM20" Model from Mini Max.

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